Live Stream Q&A
Video
Recording of Live Stream where I take viewer questions and edit viewer images live.
Images edited in this Live Stream
The following images where edited in the live stream.
Editing low contrast image into a high contrast monochrome image
“How do you deal with very flat light conditions, as where there’s a fairly dense gray overcast. If I do BW, with a 760 nm or 850 nm filter, it is all midtone. Any tricks to get more range?”
Rob Gendreau
Editing 665 nm infrared image shot on a Canon 5D Mark II featuring evergreens
“I’ve been doing IR photography for about 8 months now with a 665 nm Canon 5D II from LifePixel. Living out in the Pacific Northwest, we have mostly evergreens, which can be significantly more difficult to edit than leafy trees. Since you offered to check out our photos, I sent you a favorite composition of mine that I’ve struggled a bit to get the false color looking right. Getting the channel swap and basic edits are no problem- it’s the color/hue/saturation of the trees that I can’t seem to find something that’s really eye catching. Any recommendations are appreciated!”
Brian Mitchell
Editing 590 nm infrared images shot on a Nikon 3400 in low light with fog
“Love to see what you could do with these Nikon 3400 life pixel conversion 590 shot am very low fog light.”
Jim Chabot
Q&A from this Live Stream
- Can you use a neutral density filter to protect your lens on a infrared camera?
- Is the white balance used when shooting in RAW important?
- What does Invert mean and how does it apply to creating camera profiles and color swapping images?
- If I have a camera converted to Full Spectrum and I’m using 590 nm, 680 nm, etc. filters, all I need is one color profile?
- Back in the days of reading magazines (Pop Photo, Modern Photo, Petersen’s Photo, etc.) usually the sharpest f-stop in a lens was one to two f-stops from wide open. Now in the digital age it seems a shift happened and most lenses are sharpest at the mid range of f-stops. So in those days the aperture sweet spot was about f4 to 5.6, but now the sweet spot is usually f8 to f11. What am I missing here?
- Is there no advantage to having a camera a camera built from the ground up to be IR, such as the Fujifilm X-T1 IR? How would you compare it to other converted cameras?
- I know how to white balance and color swap. But then? Is there a “third step” that is especially recommended to do in IR photography, or at this point it’s up to the photographer’s sensibility and style to complete the processing?
- I want B&W but having a hard time deciding between 720 nm and 830 nm. Are there any pitfalls related to going with 830 nm besides the loss of light on the sensor leading to slightly longer shutter speeds?
- I get very noisy images with the Kolari Pocket, even when shooting 100 ISO. Is there a fix for this?
- Downloaded darktable. Version 3.4.1.1 no longer has a Channel Mixer, so, now what?
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